There is only one useful indicator of a man's self-image: his wristwatch. Once that jacket sleeve creeps up, the sole piece ofacceptable jewelry beyond a wedding ring reveals the wearer's sense of taste and occasion.
Watch sellers employ a logical Italian dictum: a well-dressed man owns at least three timepieces. The day watch is most important: it is the watch that suits your occupation. If you're in finance, sobriety is all your watch must offer beyond the time. If you work in the media or the arts, you can be more eccentric. If your occupation involves specific tasks -- fromambulance driver, to insurance broker, to 747 pilot -- then, just as with iPhone apps, 'there are watches for that.'
For watch No. 2, you have more scope. This is your dress-down timepiece, worn everywhere from the beach to the ski slopes or for pottering around in the garden. Whether a sub-GBP 50 Swatch, or a close-to-unbreakable Rolex, it will mean you don't have to worry about a quick dive in the pool or a round of golf. This is your casual watch.
Last is the dress watch. If you find yourself wearing black tie more than once a year, or if film premieres, opera visits or smart restaurant bookings keep appearing in your diary, your day watch may lack occasion. For this final part of the trilogy, you may go one of two ways: a classical, slim, time-only gold dress watch -- orblatant bling. The presence of diamonds on your watch will accomplish this for you.
Where to start? One's first watch is often a gift -- anything from a Timex on up -- received at graduation, confirmation, first job or Bar Mitzvah. It will never be exactly what you want, but you will wear and cherish it from your teens until your first pay check. Then you will be seduced by TAG Heuer, Omega or Rolex, depending on your budget. It will be your first 'real' watch.
Buying well is the key, and it's not as tricky as you might think. As master watchmaker Peter Roberts observed: 'There really are no bad watches out there, because they all have to perform the same basic function and perform it well: tell the time. Manufacturing standards are impossibly high. So you should buy according to your budget and your taste.'
Established brands offer watches that will keep you reliably informed of the time for the rest of your life. Quality mechanical watches start for under 500 euros ($683) from makers such as Tissot, Seiko and Victorinox. (Quartz is simply infra dig, so keep that for your throwaway or unbreakable casual watch.)
'Serious' watches start at around 1,000 euros to 1,500 euros, while a modicum of exclusivity begins above 3,000 euros. To dabble at the high-end of the watchmaker's art, expect to part with at least 5,000 euros. And if you want to wear something unlikely to be seen on the wrist of a fellow guest at a dinner party, start thinking 15,000 euros and above. This gets you into the arena populated bybrands such as A. Lange &Sohne, Breguet and Patek Philippe among others. It will likely buy you a model above their entry-level offerings. Think of it this way: they may both have the same badge, but there's a world of difference between a 3-series and a 7-series BMW. So, too, with wristwatches.
“严肃”的手表下自1,000欧元左右，上至1,500欧元，少数限量手表起价在3,000欧元以上。要欣赏到顶级工艺，那就准备至少拿出5,000欧元。而如果你希望自己戴的手表很少有机会与晚宴上的另一位客人雷同，首先就得想想能不能拿出15,000欧元或更多。到此你进入了一个名品殿堂，朗格(A. Lange &Sohne)、宝玑(Breguet)、百达翡丽(Patek Philippe)等都在其列。拿这些钱买到的手表可能超出了这些品牌的入门级。这么想吧：虽然铭牌可能都一样，但宝马(BMW)3系和7系还是存在着天壤之别，手表也是如此。